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South Africa ~ KwaZulu Natal, Lesotho & Swaziland

The traditional homeland of the proud Zulus, KwaZulu-Natal contains manifold attractions including stunning beaches, world-renowned scuba diving, magnificent game and bird viewing, Zulu battlefields and stunning mountains all brimming with rich and important history. The neighbouring semi-enveloped independent Kingdoms of Lesotho and Swaziland with their different cultures and scenery give a delightfully surprising twist to an itinerary in this region.

Durban

Vibrant Durban, the third largest city in South Africa and a major port, is an exciting cosmopolitan mix of Indian, African and English as well as Zulu cultures. The climate is warmer in the winter than the Western cape so its sandy beaches, protected by shark nets, are a year-round attraction. Victorian buildings stand side by side with bazaars, mosques and temples. Recent developments include the uShaka Marine World with the fifth largest aquarium in the world. There are numerous museums, one of the most fascinating being the Kwa Muhle Museum devoted to the last two centuries of Durban history during colonial and apartheid eras. There are some lovely botanical gardens and a Bird Park and the excellent diving area of Aliwal Shoal is around 30mins drive from the city. Durban is an ideal setting off point for the KwaZulu-Natal game parks, wetlands, historic battlefields, and the Drakensberg Mountains and coast.

The Dolphin Coast

The Dolphin Coast stretches for 80km north of Durban from Umhlanga Rocks to the mouth of the Tugela River and is renowned for its beach resorts such as Ballito and Shaka’s Rock for a real ‘holiday’ feel with all amenities and entertainment. Bottle-nose dolphins are attracted to the warm shallow waters to feed at all times of year and – as with humans - they can sometimes be seen in the world-famous surf. Fishing, swimming and scuba diving are all possible from these resorts.

KWAZULU-NATAL GAME, WETLAND AND MARINE RESERVES

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve (sometimes spelled Umfolozi or Imfolozi or mfulawozi!)

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve is the home of ‘Operation Rhino’ which played a major role in bringing the white rhino back from the brink of extinction (only 20 worldwide in 1900 to over 10,000 today). It is no surprise that this reserve is renowned for its excellent rhino sightings and is also one of the best reserves in which to enjoy self-drive game viewing from well-marked roads, although guided safari drives and walks with a trained naturalist are also available. The park is bisected by a public road, with the southern iMfolozi (Umfolozi) section characterised by broad, deep valleys carved by the Black- and White Umfolozi rivers. Fibrous mfulawozi bushes grow alongside the riverbeds (note the Zulu spelling of the name of this area). Beyond the riverbeds the landscape composes of subtropical forest, acacia savannah and grasslands.

The Hluhluwe River, rising in the mountains north of the park, names the northern section of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve. Sandbanks, rock, steep cliffs, elongated pools and dangling vegetation from the riverside forest marks its path through the reserve. Although this was the oldest natural park in Africa, proclaimed in 1895, the wildlife was nearly exterminated in the 1930s and 1940s by farmers intent on eliminating the spread of nagana (Tsetse Fly) disease from wild to domestic stock. However, in 1952 the park was handed over to the KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife organisation which by careful husbandry has resulted in the great success story seen today. It is the only reserve in the region which has the ‘Big Five’, both black and white Rhino and all the major plains game. Bird life is outstanding. The eventual plan is to link the several well known private reserves including Mkuze Falls, Thanda, Leopard Mountain, Phinda, St Lucia Wetland Park on the coast so that animals may roam freely through Zululand unimpeded by fences.

Phinda Private Game Reserve

Boasting seven different ecosystems and bordering the iSimangaliso (Greater St Lucia) Wetland Park and Mkhuze Game Reserve, the 18,000 hectare Phinda Private Game Reserve is probably the best place in South Africa to see cheetahs plus the ‘Big Five’, antelopes and prolific bird life, particularly species favouring the rare sand forest habitat. Phinda Isilwane in Zulu means ‘the return of the wildlife’. This is very apt for this private game reserve which before 1990 was largely devoted to cattle contained by miles of fencing. The removal of the fences since 1990 and the reintroduction of native flora and fauna are a huge conservation success and an inspiration for other similar projects in South Africa. In the long term it is hoped to integrate this park with those nearby to allow the wildlife greater range. The reserve’s experienced rangers and trackers will guide you to on wildlife drives and walks and help with bird watching from the hide. Other activities include crocodile and hippo-spotting by boat, horse-riding, learning about Zulu culture and excursions to the coast for snorkelling and scuba diving and for the chance to see nesting Loggerhead and Leatherback turtles in season (South Africa’s summer months c. November-February). There are currently six luxurious lodges to choose from, each with a unique outlook and all with fabulous service.

Thanda Private Game Reserve

Thanda means ’love’ in Zulu and this reserve is ideally suited to couples who wish to get away from it all either in luxurious bush villas or a well equipped tented camp. A special feature of this reserve is the opportunity to explore Zulu culture in addition to wildlife viewing. Zulu people benefit directly from the reserve, both in employment and funding for community projects in the neighbouring tribal lands. There are dawn to dusk game drives and bush walks to spot the abundant wildlife in the reserve and also the chance to travel to the coast at St Lucia for sightings of whales, sharks and dolphins as well as turtles in the summer months. Visits to traditional villages, Zulu dancing, a wellness centre offering Western, Eastern and Zulu treatment plus Zulu and western cuisine, often eaten under the stars, are all available in Thanda. Much work is being undertaken to clear the reserve of alien plant species so that indigenous flora and fauna can thrive. Animals which can be seen at this reserve include cheetah, giraffe, elephant, rhino, buffalo and wild dog.

iSimangaliso (formally The Greater St Lucia) Wetland Park

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 328,000 hectare iSimangaliso Wetland Park encompasses South Africa’s largest inland body of water, Lake St Lucia and protects a rich variety of habitats and wildlife. The eastern shore of Lake St Lucia is bordered by the highest vegetated dunes in the world, towering to an amazing 200m, separating the lake from the Indian Ocean coastline. The park protects a marine zone of extensive sandy beaches, tropical seas and coral reefs. The Mkhuze swamp flanks the north shores of the lake with its papyrus and reed wetland. Dry savannah and thornveld border the western shore. The largest South African population of southern reed bucks are to be found on the eastern shore. Black rhino, buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, waterbuck, greater kudu, nyala, bushbuck and warthog may also be spotted. The drier western shore is the place to find sand forest fauna such as red duiker, samango monkeys, suni and Tonga red squirrels. The sand forest is also home to 111 species of butterfly, Neergaard's sunbird, African broadbills and green-billed coucal. Numerous Nile crocodiles and hippos inhabit the lake itself. A guided launch from St Lucia town is a great way to view them and the multitude of bird life including black egret, greater flamingo, eastern white pelican, African spoonbill, African fish eagle and goliath herons. The estuary is linked to the offshore St Lucia Marine Reserve forming, together with Maputaland Marine Reserve, the largest coastal reserve in Africa.

Sodwana Bay

Sodwana Bay offers spectacular scuba diving over the world’s southern most coral reef and with colourful fish. Humpback whales and whale sharks also frequent the area. The sands of Sodwana Bay are an important nesting site for loggerhead and leather-back turtles from mid November to February. If lucky, night drives in the area could reveal honey badgers and side striped jackals raiding nests for eggs. The beach can become crowded with local tourists, especially during school holidays.

The Mkhuze Game Reserve

The Mkhuze Game Reserve (sometimes spelled Mkuze) is a major part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park to the west of Sodwana Bay connected by a narrow strip of land surrounding the Mkhuze River before it enters Lake St Lucia and bounded by the Lebombo Mountains to the west. Although it is rich in mammalian wildlife it is most notable for spectacular bird life (over 430 species) and beautiful landscapes. This varies from seasonal flood plains of the Muzi Pans with water lilies, reed beds and swamps to savannah. To the south of the Mkuze River are towering fig forests, home to trumpeter hornbills. Several hides have been erected at artificial waterholes and on the edge of the pans and here are some of the best and most relaxing ways to view the wildlife. One of Africa’s most colourful birds, the lilac-breasted roller may be spotted together with pelicans, flamingos and kingfishers. Big cats are elusive and there are no lions, but  black and white rhino are likely sightings as are monkeys and baboons.

Maputaland Forest and Marine Reserve

Mabibi

Around 20km north from busy Sodwana Bay is tranquil Mabibi, protected within the Maputaland Coastal Forest and Marine Reserve. The offshore coral reef and rich tropical marine life provides a scuba diving paradise with access to renowned dive sites such as Nine Mile with its stunning coral formations. Over 1,200 species of fish are found on the reefs off Mabibi, including parrot fish, blue surgeons, moorish idols, marble- and manta rays. Bottlenose dolphins, various sharks and turtles may also be seen as well as enormous whale sharks if lucky.   The beach is long and unspoiled and the sea can be quite rough with strong currents. Thonga Beach Lodge has exclusive rights to launch its speedboat from the beach and the ride into and out of the shore is certainly exhilarating! Rocks provide protection at low tide for some good snorkelling close to shore. The coastal forest offers good bird watching, though other wildlife is scarce with many of the forest-dwelling mammals such as bush-babies, large-spotted genets and porcupine being nocturnal. Nearby Lake Sibaya makes for an interesting excursion with crocodiles and hippos.

Rocktail Bay

20km north of Mabibi and accessible only to those staying at Rocktail Beach Camp (and Rocktail Bay Lodge if and when it re-opens), Rocktail Bay offers a quiet and unspoilt beach with access to world-class scuba diving together with snorkelling at low tide in the bay. Pregnant ragged-tooth sharks migrate north up the KwaZulu-Natal coast from late September to May, providing a major attraction for scuba divers. On land, there is no big game but bird watching is excellent with many rare species including the palm-nut vulture. Excursions to Black Rock, a fossilised dune, are available and it is possible to watch loggerhead and leatherback turtles laying eggs on the beach in the summer months (Nov-Mar).  Rocktail Beach Camp, offers a family-friendly stay with a swimming pool and games at the lodge, with the beach accessed by a forest trail (transfers and picnics can be arranged).

Kosi Bay Nature Reserve

Kosi Bay is in the far northeast of KwaZulu-Natal comprising a series of four estuarine lakes connected by narrow channels which finally enter the sea at Kosi Mouth and surrounding coastal and dune forests, raffia palm forest, grasslands and wetlands. In spite of the name, visitors are unlikely to see the coast unless making a special day trip or the hiking the four-day Amanzimnyama Trail. The local Tonya people have been fishing this area sustainably for centuries using fish kraals and reed traps which are a striking feature of the area. Hippos and crocodiles inhabit the lakes and the thick coastal belt houses vervet and samango monkeys together with bush babies and red and blue duikers. Kosi Bay Nature Reserve is particularly renowned for bird watching with the chance of spotting Pel's fishing-owl, African finfoot and African pygmy-goose as well as the rare palm-nut vulture which depends on the giant endemic Kosi Palm, a plant with the largest leaves of any plant in the world. Other endemic flora includes the Kosi cycad, Kosi Fern and cycads. Kosi Bay is noted for its aggressive bull sharks (known locally as Zambesi).

THE UKHAHLAMBA-DRAKENSBERG PARK

Separating KwaZulu-Natal from the tiny independent Kingdom of Lesotho is the dramatically beautiful Drakensberg Mountain Range - named the ‘Dragon Mountains’ by European settlers and ‘uKhahlamba’ by the Zulus (translated as ‘Barrier of Spears’). It comprises massive basalt cliffs and sandstone buttresses ranging in altitude from 1280m to 3446m at Mafadi Peak, the tallest mountain in South Africa. The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site because of its great diversity of habitat, sublime scenery, endemic and threatened flora and fauna species, around 35,000 ancient San rock art images and as the source of many rivers which flow into the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. It is a hiker’s paradise with numerous easy to strenuous walking trails and trekking peaks to more technical climbs for the experienced. For the less active, there are also some exceptional scenic drives as well as fishing and horse riding.

Weather in this region is changeable at any time of year. Summers are warm and wet with dramatic thunderstorms and a tendency towards misty days which can obsure the view.  Winters are dry, sunny but cold with temperatures dropping below freezing at night and occasional snow at altitude.

NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Royal Natal National Park

The Royal Natal National Park, in the northern section of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, offers the most dramatic ‘picture postcard’ scenery of the Drakensberg. An unpopulated wilderness of massive rock spires, impressive waterfalls, rivers, pools, forest and extensive grasslands, this area is famed for the 5km of sheer basalt rock wall known as the Ampitheatre, including the 3165m Sentinel Peak and 3121m Beacon Buttress and 3078m Eastern Buttress. The nearby 3283m peak of Mont-Aux-Sources is, as the name suggests, the source of five rivers including the Orange River which flows west, defining the southern border of South Africa and Namibia. The River Tugela (sometimes spelled Thukela) also begins here, falling in spectacular fashion over the Ampitheatre wall. The Tugela Falls are the second highest in the world at 948 metres, dropping in five free-fall cascades. As many as 18 waterfalls can appear following heavy rains and, in winter, the escarpment can be covered in snow and the upper section of the falls can freeze, forming impressive icicles. The 6-hour Tugela Gorge Walk is unmissable for a chance to see the Ampitheatre up close, as well as the famous climb to its plateau by means of two chain ladders (or via a steep gully for the more feint hearted!). From here one can appreciate the magnificence of the Tugela Falls as it plummets to the valley below.

CENTRAL DRAKENSBERG

The Central Drakensberg features four distinct areas: Giant’s Castle, Injisuthi, Champagne Valley and Cathedral Peak.

Giant’s Castle Game Reserve

Giant's Castle Area

Named after the rocky silhouette from the Drakensberg Mountains resembling a sleeping giant (including the 3,315m Giant's Castle peak), this area is renowned for its San rock art, spectacular hiking, majestic eland antelope, baboons and the bone-breaking lammergeier (bearded vulture) which can be seen dropping carcasses from the air to smash them on the rocks. This enables them to extract the bone marrow which constitutes 90% of their diet. The lammergeyer hide is most active in winter (May-September).

Injisuthi

A hutted camp at the head of the Injisuthi Valley, in the northern section of Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, is a breathtakingly beautiful base from which to explore some moderately strenuous hiking trails. Views are dominated by the impressive mountain peaks of Champagne Castle (3,248 m), Monk’s Cowl (3,234 m) and Cathkin Peak (3,149 m), making it a draw for serious climbers and mountaineers. Walks can be taken to natural swimming pools and streams, stunning viewpoints and to see some outstanding San art e.g. in Battle Cave. Traditional Zulu villages may be encountered enroute, with their beehive huts and Nguni cattle. This area provides the exciting opportunity to stay overnight in a cave in the hills (very basic – no facilities).

Champagne Valley

This is a picturesque resort area for those wishing touch the surface of the Drakensberg in more gentle fashion. The towering Champagne Castle peak provides a stunning backdrop and walking or horse trails can be explored by first driving into Monk’s Cowl State Forest or the historic Spioenkop Nature Reserve.

Cathedral Peak

Another very scenic area with beautiful day walks by the Ndumeni River and up Cathedral Peak itself - a freestanding pinnacle from which there are outstanding views. Hiking trails begin from the Cathedral Peak Hotel which also offers mountain biking, bird watching, horse riding, quad biking and golf.

SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Sani Pass

Once a mule trail for traders, an escape route for rustlers and challenge for legendary pioneers, the 2,874m Sani Pass is the only driveable route up into the High Berg of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg mountains and connects Kwa-Zulu Natal to the Kingdom of Lesotho (remember your passport!). Although in the process of being tarred, the hairpin road, rising 1,300m in 8km, is notoriously treacherous and impassable in bad weather and should only be attempted by experienced drivers in a suitable 4x4 vehicle. Apart from the exhilarating drive, rewards include the highest pub in Africa at Sani Top, and views towards Thabana Ntlenyana (3,483m), the highest mountain in Africa south of Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, as well as a chance to ski (when conditions allow!).

 
KWA-ZULU NATAL BATTLEFIELDS

Kwa-Zulu Natal is steeped in history with dramatic battles between the local Zulus, Afrikaners (known as ‘Boers’ – ‘farmer’ in Afrikaans) and the British Empire, shaping the extraordinary politics of today.

Various Anglo-Zulu Battlefields are located west of the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi National Park around Ulundi and Eshowe (together with a staged opportunity to learn about traditional Zulu culture). However, the most famous battlefields are in the north-west of KwaZulu Natal.

The Boer–Zulu war of 1836-1852 included the battle of Blood River in 1838. The Afrikaner Voortrekkers, refusing British rule in the Western Cape Colony, headed over the Drakensberg mountains and clashed with the local Zulus over land agreements. The Boers inflicted a convincing defeat, causing King Dingane of the Zulus to flee.

Isandlwana Battlefield was the site of one of Britain’s most humiliating military defeats on January 22 1879 when 1,200 men were overrun by spear wielding Zulus. A colonial ultimatum issued to the Zulu was followed up by three columns of British troops, one of which camped 6km from Isandlwana Hill. They were oblivious to the 25,000 Zulu warriors over the brow of the hill who, once they had been spotted by a scouting party, outflanked and destroyed the British contingent. The defeat shocked Victorian Britain from its notion of total colonial power.

On the same evening as the Battle of Isandlwana some 4,000 of the Zulu King’s reserve troops who were eager for action attacked the British Field Hospital at Rorke's Drift against King Cetshwayo’s orders. ‘Washing a spear,’ i.e. killing an enemy, was required of a Zulu warrior before he was allowed to marry. The hospital, just across the Buffalo River from Isandlwana, was bravely defended by a hundred mainly sick and injured British troops, earning eleven Victoria Crosses in the process - still the largest number ever awarded in one battle – and going some way to restore British pride.

Then in 1880 (after the discovery of diamonds at Kimberley in 1871) and from 1899-1902 (following the discovery of gold in the Transvaal in 1886) it was the turn of the British Empire to fight the two small independent Boer republics of the South African Republic (Transvaal Republic) and the Orange Free State. The Boers caused the British embarrassment at Ladysmith where they were besieged for 118 days in 1899. The Boers prevented the British advance into Northern KwaZulu-Natal mainly by guerrilla warfare techniques. 40km south of Ladysmith near Chieveley, the Boers blew up an armoured train carrying the young Winston Churchill. How history may have changed! The Ladysmith Siege Museum is a mine of fascinating information on the subject.

The battles of Colenso and Spioenkop (or Spionkop) were other bloody defeats for the British, both involving troops sent to relieve the siege at Ladysmith. Spioenkop is the name of a small hill where 1,700 British troops were attacked by 3,600 Boers on 24th January 1900. There was great loss of life on both sides, a mass withdrawal and an eventual reclamation of the deserted hill by the Boers. The history of the 20th century could have been dramatically altered during this encounter as Winston Churchill, Mahatma Ghandi and the first premier of the South African Union, Louis Botha, were all present at Spioenkop on the day and survived.

The events of the Kwa-Zulu Natal Battlefields is brought to life by the inspirational historians who lead guided tours to the sites, making the experience fascinating even to those with the mildest of interest.

LESOTHO

The small mountain kingdom of Lesotho, entirely surrounded by South Africa, may be reached from the Drakensberg by the Sani Pass with its stunning vistas. It has a distinctly African feel compared with the European influenced South Africa. Maseru, the nation’s capital is a good base for exploration if not of great interest itself. From here it is possible to reach Thaba Bosiu, the mountain stronghold of King Moshoeshoe I, the nation’s founder. Semonkong in the central highlands enjoys breathtaking scenery with many outdoor activities and a nearby dramatic waterfall. Malealea is famous for its popular lodge, originally a trading lodge set up in 1905 by a British man Mervyn Bosworth-Smith, now greatly extended to provide accommodation from camping and forest huts to twin-bedded houses. The scenery is spectacular, adding some credence to Bosworth-Smith’s brass plaque 6km before the lodge on the Gate of Paradise Pass, “Wayfarer, pause and look upon the gateway to Paradise”. Traditional Basotho villages of circular huts are to be seen. For hiking enthusiasts it is worth visiting the Tsehlanyane National Park, the Bokong Nature Reserve and the remote Sehlabathebe National Park. Access on horse back is also popular with pony trekking lodges all over the country. Autumn (February to April) is perhaps the best time to visit because of the moderate daytime temperature and less rain. Winter (May to July) often sees snow in the highlands and sometimes at the lower altitudes too, plus very cold nights. Spring (August to October) is pleasant with the melting snow giving rise to fresh vegetation but in summer (November to January) there is often torrential rain. Nights are generally very cold, especially in the highlands.

SWAZILAND

Swaziland is another landlocked kingdom with lovely scenery surrounded by South Africa on three sides and the Lubombo Mountains and Mozambique to the east. It is a popular stop between KwaZulu-Natal and Kruger to break up the drive, enjoy a game reserve and learn about the country’s fascinating cultural traditions. One of the more famous traditions is the 'Reed Dance' ceremony held at the Eludzidzini Royal Residence - an annual event which allows King Mswati III to choose an additional wife from the many thousands of young women (at time of writing he has 13!)